Ein Ammi schrieb:

OK for those that are sick of broken axles, cvd's and dogbones on the (not so) Fun (when it breaks all the time) Factor. This is the post for you...a step by step guide on modding your truck with TMaxx drive shafts and hubs which will make your axles so tough and allow you to run MAX size wheels to boot! [:D]

If you do not fall into the above category but just feel like modding the FU#K out of your truck (hey maybe you want to stick a BB in it!) then also take note...

This is a killer setup, although I havent had a chance to give it death yet, PoorJudgement has had the setup for ages in his .28 powered funfactor and loves it.

The cool thing about the TMaxx shafts is that they are modular and they break right down to individual pieces which can be interchanged.

Below is a list of parts you will need, part numbers are from TowerHobbies.

Just letting you know that I purchased my parts on EBAY and got a better deal, especially because there are complete stes of hubs/axle carriers that come with pivot ball and (mine did anyway) bearings.

Also remember that you will now have to get Maxx sized wheels as the axles are too fat for standard wheels. The tyres I have used are Panther Komodos on RPM stablemaxx rims (you need a rim with wider offset)


Parts:

Traxxas half shaft long tmaxx LXSP55 (two sets needed)

Traxxas stub axle tmaxx LXDDS9 (two sets needed)

Traxxas axle carriers/steering blocks LXSP30 (two sets needed)

Traxxas wheel hub/pins LXSP59 (two sets needed)

Traxxas aluminum caps pivot balls tmaxx LXSP33 (two sets needed)

Traxxas pivot balls/bushings tmaxx LXSP31 (two sets needed)

Bearings 6x12x4 8 needed or 4 sets of LXSP10 if purchasing from tower

Plus 4 original CEN FF cvds or 2 cvds and 2 dogbones (with modded diff cups if useing dogbones at rear!!!)

Firstly I will explain how to build the setup for the front, which I have used on the front and the rear because I had 4 CVD's to CUT UP [:(]

1: OKAY time to hack those sh*#ty CVD's to bits, start by grinding down the axle (dremmel and file etc) so it resembles the diff cup where it goes into the diff, basicall speaking it needs some "flats" on it and the threaded part removed. (see pic 1) Keep trying it in the diff now and then, filing more off till it fits snug and doesnt bind going in and out.



TIP: Use the thread on the axle to hold it in the vice while taking off the bulk of the material before trimming the thread off completely.

2: Next cut down the CVD so overall length is 78mm approx.

3: Cut down MALE part of TMaxx axle so it is approx 40mm long.

4: Slide it onto the old CVD so 7 to 8mm of the CVD shaft is sticking out the end (you may have to run a drill through the middle of the plastic TMaxx shaft first)

5: Carefully drill a hole somewher around the middle of the two shafts and slide in a CEN axle pin to lock them together.



6: Find a spring (pens are good donors) that will fit snugly over the end of the shaft. Hey presto, one half of the shaft done!! [;)]

7: Cut down the Female TMaxx shaft to 108mm overall length

8: De-burr edges and put together to form one complete axle, make sure it slides freely.





Right then, the Dogbone version relies on the the standard diff cup being used instead of the CVD in the diff so it must be modded by way of the "diff cup mod" to ensure it wont break later.

OKAY to make the dogbone version of the axle you use a Male TMaxx axle instead of using a Female, and cut it to the same length as before (108mm overall)

Cut down a CEN Dogbone shaft to 57mm approx overall length

Insert dogbone into the Male plastic TMaxx shaft (remember to run a drill up the centre if need be) then drill and pin as before to lock together.
Overall length should be approx 126mm

TIP: Before drilling hole for axle pin, check length by installing onto vehicle and compressing suspension fully. Doesnt need to be too critical because this can be adjusted by screwing pivot balls in and out just like in the normal dogbone setup. The CVD version eliminates this by way of the sliding shaft.

9: Shock mounts will now have to be modded to accomodate for the thicker shafts. Only a little on the rear, but more on the front due to for aft movement of the shaft due to steering.



My mounts have been moved outwards which really helps cut down on the amount the lower suspension arms flex whe suspension bottoms.

I also moved my rear control arms to the rear of the axle. But its up to you for that one, either way you will need some different length rods on the back. The front steering tie rods can be kept standard, just drill a hole in the TMaxx hub mount where needed.





Happy modding, feel free to ask questions....;)